MonoPoly restoration - thus far...

[random variate]

Thanks Rom...! It's not particularly difficult to restore a synth, but it does take a lot of time, and a workbench of half decent tools helps. Patience is the more important than skill, in my mind. Take it slow, research each stage, and let it happen in good time rather than rushing.

I will test some walnut stain and see how it looks 😊

The Maplin 5600S is a beast! Would have taken a long time to build that back in early 80s (it was a DIY synth)

Wil keep you posted on the MonoPoly

Cheers

Tim
________________________________
From: Rom MUSIC BAR<mailto:xtechcode at gmail.com>
Sent: ‎14/‎02/‎2016 09:24
To: Music-bar<mailto:music-bar at lists.music-bar.org>
Subject: Re: MonoPoly restoration - thus far...

It look already really amazing Tim!
I m jealous of your skills man :)  (my taste for the wood colour would be a bit darker) …
I would love to learn how to repair synths (hobby) …  my dream is to be a stagier / assistant for someone like you just to learn :)
unfortunately I didn t find anyone like you in my area  ...

Last summer I watched this guy  repairing a Maplin 5600 ( i didn t know this brand before)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Wy5X4IGozc

very interesting IMO .

While waiting : good luck with the tuning of the 4th OSC !!!!  :)

Romain




On 14 Feb 2016, at 01:44, random variate <randomvariate at hotmail.co.uk> wrote:

> So,acquired a MonoPoly last year that had had some liquid spillage that had blown the chipboard base badly,  end cheeks had been battered, couple of missing switch caps, and two of the pots required complete replacement.
>
> I thought I would give the full restoration a go...
>
> pictures at this link: http://1drv.ms/1TfSM74
>
> Got a local chippie to rough cut 18mm white birch ply end panels, which I then sanded true.
>
> I cut a new MDF baseboard, from a piece of salvage I saw in a garbage skip outside a house that was undergoing renovation.
>
> I salvaged the original front chipboard plinth, and put new realwood birch veneer on to match the plywood end cheeks.
>
> End cheeks are attached via screws that go in to threaded metal inserts in baseboard. A real faff to position and drill, but best way. I still need to countersink holes and switch to nice black hex machine screws.
>
> Need to try and salvage the original wood rails from inside of original end cheeks, to which the front panel screws, but they are stapled on to original cheeks and likely gonna disintegrate. If so, will need to fashion new rails. Fun.
>
> The plywood cheeks and front plinth just has just has 3 coats of Danish Oil on for now. Will see how it looks in daylight and do some tests with walnut coloured stain, but I am quite liking the lighter look.
>
> Let me know your thoughts on the colouring... keep it as is, maybe a clear varnish / or maybe try a deeper colouration?
>
> At the end of all this I need to calibrate oscillator 4, which was proving tricky as I could not prop the original case open - which is needed as one needs to switch back and forth to front panel to test.
>
> I hope a stable casing will make Osc4 calibration a bit easier!
>
> Cheers
>
> Tim
>
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